As we traverse Saginaw Channel once again, passing “Point Retreat” lighthouse.
This will be the farthest north that Steel Eagle will take us on this trip.
After turning into Icy Straight, we arrive at the village of Hoonah, 
the name meaning “Where the north wind doesn’t blow”. It is a mostly native settlement of 800 people. Like all others, very friendly. The village is busy when we arrive, as two cruise ships have also dropped the hook outside the bay. We decide to stay here for two nights and a local, Phil Jones, volunteered to drive us out to see the bears
Wednesday 7:00am Phil, from Bears Paw Lodge, takes us on a tour to snap some pictures of the many bears they have in the area.
Now, Alberta has one Grizzly per 50 square miles in the mountains. Chichagof Island has 2 per square mile!
Prairie people never worry about bears much. They sleep with their mess kits under their pillows, convinced that just banging their spoon on it would send a thousand pound grizzly running frantically away into the night. Bears scare the hell out of me. I had a friend, who had been chased by a bear in Swan Hills....he refused to walk by so much as a shelterbelt on the prairies after that. Had nightmares where his wife had to wake him up and assure him they were safe at home.
Bears can run faster than Ben Johnson, they’re big, and they eat people!
As we meandered down the road we got close to them...
Well at least he headed away!!!
For the record, during the first 85 years of this last century, only 20 people died in bear attacks in Alaska. In the 10 years 1975-1985, 19 people in Alaska were killed by dogs.
The presence of these majestic creatures is a reminder of how privileged we are to share some of North America’s dwindling wilderness. We saw the above 2 year old, a 1000 lb boar that split for the bush before his photo opportunity and a sow and cub at a distance.
Our tour also took us out to the beautiful Fresh Water Bay.
”Mr Eagle” just sat on his perch ready to greet us!!
We met Wendy and Aldwin of Hoonah Fish Company and just our luck, fresh White King Salmon is in. Guess what’s for supper? Life is good. Love that fresh fish!!!
the name meaning “Where the north wind doesn’t blow”. It is a mostly native settlement of 800 people. Like all others, very friendly. The village is busy when we arrive, as two cruise ships have also dropped the hook outside the bay. We decide to stay here for two nights and a local, Phil Jones, volunteered to drive us out to see the bearsWednesday 7:00am Phil, from Bears Paw Lodge, takes us on a tour to snap some pictures of the many bears they have in the area.
Now, Alberta has one Grizzly per 50 square miles in the mountains. Chichagof Island has 2 per square mile!
Prairie people never worry about bears much. They sleep with their mess kits under their pillows, convinced that just banging their spoon on it would send a thousand pound grizzly running frantically away into the night. Bears scare the hell out of me. I had a friend, who had been chased by a bear in Swan Hills....he refused to walk by so much as a shelterbelt on the prairies after that. Had nightmares where his wife had to wake him up and assure him they were safe at home.
Bears can run faster than Ben Johnson, they’re big, and they eat people!
As we meandered down the road we got close to them...
Well at least he headed away!!!
For the record, during the first 85 years of this last century, only 20 people died in bear attacks in Alaska. In the 10 years 1975-1985, 19 people in Alaska were killed by dogs.The presence of these majestic creatures is a reminder of how privileged we are to share some of North America’s dwindling wilderness. We saw the above 2 year old, a 1000 lb boar that split for the bush before his photo opportunity and a sow and cub at a distance.
Our tour also took us out to the beautiful Fresh Water Bay.
”Mr Eagle” just sat on his perch ready to greet us!!
We met Wendy and Aldwin of Hoonah Fish Company and just our luck, fresh White King Salmon is in. Guess what’s for supper? Life is good. Love that fresh fish!!!
The next 3 stops were the most interesting and picturesque of the journey so far.
The trip to Elfin Cove took us through South Indian Pass and out into Cross Sound briefly before turning into the quaint community with its boardwalk, that circles around town and into the
inner harbour. We had been told of the town’s character and were not disappointed. 
Sitting on our docked boat looking out at Brady Glacier across Cross Sound makes it all too clear why some are drawn north to stay. The lure is compelling.
The trip to Elfin Cove took us through South Indian Pass and out into Cross Sound briefly before turning into the quaint community with its boardwalk, that circles around town and into the
inner harbour. We had been told of the town’s character and were not disappointed. 
Sitting on our docked boat looking out at Brady Glacier across Cross Sound makes it all too clear why some are drawn north to stay. The lure is compelling.Pelican is also a boardwalk 
town located in Lisianski inlet, our next stop. We too were drawn to Rosie’s Bar and Wendy took her turn signing her name on the roof. But she was prepared and the pants didn’t come down. 
town located in Lisianski inlet, our next stop. We too were drawn to Rosie’s Bar and Wendy took her turn signing her name on the roof. But she was prepared and the pants didn’t come down. 
The following day, departure was 
at 5 AM, timing the entrance to the open ocean via Lisianski Straight. A washing machine ride it was, as the swell builds when the water shallows (the tsunami effect) at the entrance. Then rock and roll for 2 hours until we entered Imperial Passage and the safety of the inside route through Portlock Harbor, Surveyor Passage, Ogden Passage. Elbow passage and the safety of Klag Bay where we anchored in front of the abandoned gold mine town of Chichagof. We both agreed that this was the finest wilderness cruising we had ever experience. Not a single other boat in sight for 2 days now and we passed many, many potential anchorages. The west side of Chichagof deserves at least two weeks of exploration and should be a cruising destination in itself. Desolation Sound, The Broughtons and The Broken Islands back in BC hold nothing over this area. And this area has its own spectacular hot springs at White Sulphur. Saddened to have to move on but Sitka is in our sights.
at 5 AM, timing the entrance to the open ocean via Lisianski Straight. A washing machine ride it was, as the swell builds when the water shallows (the tsunami effect) at the entrance. Then rock and roll for 2 hours until we entered Imperial Passage and the safety of the inside route through Portlock Harbor, Surveyor Passage, Ogden Passage. Elbow passage and the safety of Klag Bay where we anchored in front of the abandoned gold mine town of Chichagof. We both agreed that this was the finest wilderness cruising we had ever experience. Not a single other boat in sight for 2 days now and we passed many, many potential anchorages. The west side of Chichagof deserves at least two weeks of exploration and should be a cruising destination in itself. Desolation Sound, The Broughtons and The Broken Islands back in BC hold nothing over this area. And this area has its own spectacular hot springs at White Sulphur. Saddened to have to move on but Sitka is in our sights.
"...most interesting so far" and "the finest wildnerness cruising...ever". All this shortly after dumping your guests from the SS Minnow. A great aerial view of Pelican (google) - why so many slips for such a small town? Must be a big charter fishing area. I think I need to start a tradition at Mabel similar to Rosie's Bar. Stay afloat.
ReplyDelete